Back in Paris, as always possibly for the last time. At the beginning of the last day of the trip, I decide that of the infinity of art and culture and history and struggle that this city is, this is the center:
Écoute ("Listen") is perhaps not a pinnacle of Western Art. Its sculptor, Henri de Miller, doesn't even rank a Wikipedia page. It's beautiful but aimed at the masses, among which, when it comes to sculpture, I count myself. It's a simple idea: a head, eyes dreamy, and a hand as though cupping the ear to hear. Up close, ridges and grooves in the surface suggest the oscillation that is sound.
Children are welcome to climb all over it.
It was installed in 1986, the same year that I lived in Paris for three months, so I remember it when it was new, a revelation of serenity in the noisy polluted mess that raged around me then. It was unusual then, in its dreaminess and cheerfulness, but there are more things like it now. It has aged well, with little sign of wear.
The space around it has churned and left it as it is. The modernist tomb of Les Halles, built on the ruins of the old public market, was remodeled in 2017 to create the Nelson Mandela Garden, framed on one side by a shopping center entrance that looks like an airport terminal. Unchanged is the wall on one side, nearly the same color as the statue. It's the giant Renaissance church of St Eustache, Paris's largest functioning cathedral now that Notre Dame us under repair. The church and the sculpture seem to like each other.
I choose this as the center of my Paris, and set the city orbiting around it. It is not far off the geographic center, but every spot in Paris is the center of something, so to organize my map, give it a form and north arrow, I must choose. Écoute grows naturally from some of France's most beautiful impulses -- art nouveau, say, or the world's best public transport logo, which also suggests a dreamy, reclining figure:
But Écoute is both middle and end. I usually stay east of it -- this time I'm lodged next to Gare de Lyon -- and my first long walk is always west. As a younger man I did the athletic hike along the river all the way to the Eiffel Tower. I'm still fit enough to do that walk, but as I grow older I care less about goals, so the walk gets shorter and more meandering, and now it ends at Ecoute.
This time, I took a bit of the "High Line of Paris," then meandered happily in the Marais, and detoured south to visit the fenced modernist fortress of the Cité Internationale des Arts, where I lived in 1986. From there I checked the price of a baguette on Île Ste Marie, which are now in euros what I once paid in francs, and admired the scaffolding of burned-out Notre Dame. Then it was finally back north to Beaubourg, past Centre Georges Pompidou, and then Les Halles and Écoute. Further west I no longer go. The next thing after Écoute is the stock exchange, and then you are into the most boring part of Paris: all elite shops mixed with tourist traps, wider streets, more rushing cars. That part of Paris is all about money or the longing for it, so I avoid.
Paris remains for me a constellation of glorious places, set in a structure that over time charms me less. The historic architecture is all grey and beige, less quirky and lived-in than that of Barcelona, which I am coming to love more as a city for wandering. But for art, public and in museums, and for a city that manifests art in all aspects of its being -- even the public transport logo -- there is still nothing like Paris. I'm here for that. But I'm not here for the elitism of the arts, too close to the elitism of money, so I stop before I get to the stock market, and orbit Écoute.